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Thrillist New York
Emailed on: Friday August 18, 2006

Game Bird Dinners

Grouse: Aug 23 and 24, 6-11pm; Orsay Restaurant: 1057 Lexington Ave, at 75th; Call 212.517.0015 to reserve; $150 (includes wine pairings)

In the world of haute cuisine, there are no hauter words than "fresh kill". To taste the difference a buckshot execution can make, hit one of Orsay's Game Bird Dinners.

The GBDs are five-course, wine-paired feasts, featuring birds murdered in the UK, then immediately flown to Orsay. This first dinner showcases wild red grouse: a small, plump forager w/ dark, gamey meat, formerly of Scotland's Drumlanrig Estate, recently roasted in its own juices. Pre-grouse, you'll dine on Scottish Langoustine, and a "Poacher's Broth" -- duckling, pheasant, wood pigeon, Cairngorm Mountain hare, mushrooms, and other lordly victuals.

Future dinners will be coordinated with hunting seasons, and should include:

Partridge (Sep thru Jan): A larger bird w/ pale meat and a delicate, mellow flavor, described by chef Jason Hicks as "a refined chicken". So refined he wraps it in bacon.

Pheasant (Oct thru Jan): Gamier tasting than partridge, the pheasant also has darker meat -- and a soul to match.

Wood Pigeon (year 'round): Deep crimson meat with several layers of flava, but a very low fat content -- perfect for the date whose loathing of animal cruelty's just outweighed by her fear of back-of-knee fat.

So reserve a seat for grouse, or hold out for one of his unlucky forest friends. Just remember: Once you try Scottish game bird, you'll never be satisfied with Central Park's "Pigeon Tuesdays" again.

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