Unmarked bars have become so ubiquitous, an honest man can no longer take excessive pride in knowing where one is. Let your boasting once again fill the night: PDT, opening Thursday*.

PDT ups the ante on "who-knew-this-was-here?" a drinker's Bat Cave located deep inside stately Crif Dog Manor. To enter, walk inside the hot dog basement, then step left into the phone booth. After dutifully scrawling "Barry hearts cock" on the wall, pick up the receiver, and provided they're not full, someone'll let you in. Inside, you'll find a relaxed cocktail den slinging classic concoctions designed by Pegu/Gramercy Tavern vet Jim Meehan. Other secrets to smugly point out to your people: the backyard smoking patio, and, behind the bar, tiny silver doors -- through which Crif employees can pass bacon-wrapped dogs, and PDT staff can eject tiny troublemakers.

Because of its miniscule size, PDT discourages parties larger than six, but that just means exposing it to everyone you know will take several sweet months of cycling small groups through -- provided your bragging hasn't alienated all but five of your friends.

*Tue/Wed are friends/family only. Don't show up, or you'll crowd out someone's uncle, and he'll have to drink on a Tompkins Square Park bench.