You may know that Top Chef's a food-porn Thunderdome, with the losers slinking home to shed over-salted tears, but who exactly does the judging? And who judges the judges? Starting today, you -- when you eat at Craft.

The Century City Craft's the sixth restaurant from Chef's Tom Colicchio, and follows in NY's footsteps with a slick-yet-casual interior and a constantly changing menu featuring the freshest gourmet meats and pastas, plus salads so green, they give the Jolly Green Giant a jolly green erection. Among the dishes: succulent Beef Short Ribs w/ Root Vegetables; a rich, hearty Duck Egg, Porcini, and Gizzard Confit w/ Duck Crackling; and muffin-sized Diver Scallops in Vermouth (because if shellfish liked things "extra dry" they'd look like tiny camels). For dessert, create your own concoction from a list of pastries, ice creams, and roasted or fresh fruit -- like a choose-your-own-adventure where you escape the treacherous Aztec King, only to be slain by fatness.

Though the relentlessly a la carte menu will bankrupt the poor/moderately rich, by the end of the summer there'll be a reasonably priced tasting menu for Craft's large outdoor patio -- so you can judge the full range of Colicchio's delicious offerings, then turn the tables when you tell him to bus your meal, or face the wheel.