Ideally, a "Restaurant and Bar" would be a delicious go-to for satisfying all your "nutritional" needs, but most places claiming to be both are nothing more than thinly veiled airport bistros. Then there's Sidecar, opening Tuesday in Park Slope.

Headed up by a former Blue Ribbon chef, Sidecar's narrow, dimmed space is designed to look like an old railroad dining car, with a room-long bar for relentless imbibing, and leather padded booths for intimate gluttony. The menu tops out at $20, with esoteric items ranging from Vietnamese Bánh mì, to jiggling platters of oysters, to "BLT Soup" -- a liquefied comfort sandwich that's nearly as satisfying as PB&J bisque. The cocktail list rests on classics, e.g., Sazeracs, Ramos Fizzes, and, to cruelly shine the light onto your social isolation, the "Old Pal". Original creations include "Dr. Tucker's 59" (Plymouth gin w/ lemon and ginger) and the "Sticky Fingers" -- Brugal Rum w/ Stone's Ginger Wine and lime, stirred with the throbbing, purple tip of Mick Jagger's penis.

Ironically (but inevitably, given the malevolence of NYC bureaucracy), liquor license delays'll keep Sidecar from slinging their beverages 'til later this month -- a potential BYO situation that'll have you furtively mixing drinks unfit even for L'Auberge de Newark Liberty International Airport.