American cinema has taught men to admire the strong, silent type -- icons like Gary Cooper, and Lou Ferrigno. For clothes that embody this calm, understated dignity: Podoll, now in New York.

A San Fran company with strong NYC roots, Podoll eschews all frills in favor of an elegantly executed simplicity that'd make Cheerios roll over and say "Ooooo!". Their pared down line of sartorial fundamentals are double-stitched for durability and made from the finest embroidered cashmere and sandwashed silk (sandwashed: a process that softens/reduces shrinkage using tiny silicon balls, harvested from poorly endowed robots). Some highlights:

• Jersey shirt and suspenders: This coarse jersey and heavy-knit suspender combo exudes the Amish-chic that helped Alexander Godunov wear down the frosty Kelly McGillis in Witness.
• Saga leather jacket: You can get this trim-cut leather blazer in any color, as long as it's black.
• Sigyl vest: Available in black nylon or gray wool, this is the sort of vest Teddy Roosevelt would have been fitted for, if only tailors had been able to escape the savage drubbings of his big stick.

Podoll runs fairly narrow, ideal for guys with Gary Cooper-ish physiques -- because even a stoic man of slight build deserves the chance to greenly explode out of his clothing and roll a boulder onto an escaping poacher.