Obsessing over something leads to nuanced appreciation -- the jazz aficionado who can tell be-bop from hard-bop, or the Jodie Foster fan who can tell when she wants him to shoot Ronald Reagan. Applying that level of discernment to seafood: Paperfish.

Launched by the Patina Group and designed by the guy who did Google's HQ, this 180-seat restaurant/lounge breaks down its menu into categories so particular, they could only be further fetishized by hanging them gagged from the ceiling. For starters, appetizers are subdivided by preparation/temperature: Raw (e.g., Grouper Carpaccio) Warm (Miso-marinated Black Cod w/ rice cake, fried quail egg, avocado, and yuzu-miso aioli), and Chilled (Seafood and Avocado Salad) -- sorry, "Tepid". Even more inscrutably, entrees are grouped by...fish shape: Flat choices include a Skate Wing w/ pine nuts and a mushroome'd Halibut, while the Round highlight's a Salmon Pastrami Sandwich on rye -- a favorite of Italian delis run by grizzlies.

If you hate the sea, the menu does contain two "From the Farm" items, filet mignon and roasted chicken -- not priorities for Paperfish, but that shouldn't stop you from obsessing over your beef/foul until you finally hear it say, "There's something I really want you to do for me...".