Despite a surplus of Old World drunkards, New York's sadly lacking in Old World beer gardens, forcing the loyal on a Trail-of-Tears-like trek to Queens. Don't die of thirst on your way to quench it: Radegast Biergarten, opening Thursday.

Off the first Williamsburg L stop, RB's a massive Polish/Slovakian drinking hall, complete w/ retractable roof panels -- finally answering the timeless question, "How many Poles does it take to build a drinking hall w/ retractable roof panels?" Euro-brewed good times come courtesy of 40 select bottles and 13 taps, including Dentergems Witbier, Hacker Pschorr Weisse, and other brands whose pronunciation will make you sound 10% drunker than you really are. The Warsaw Pact of a menu includes lite fare like Veal Schnitzel, Porterhouse Steak w/ Blue cheese and Bacon, and Braised Rabbit (quick animals, but evidently not that quick).

Besides suds, RB pours 22 wines and a staggering 121 cordials, an imbalanced liqueur-to-beer ratio that almost led Radegast's owners to choose a different name -- 'til they realized no one would trek anywhere for a place called Candypants Schnappsgarten.