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Modern man has three basic needs: a solid health-care plan, clothes that don't make him look too boxy, and a really good bar-and-grill -- or, if he wants to get crazy, grill-and-bar. Get your b&g on at The Bureau Bar.

The Bureau's an all-purpose destination for modestly classy relaxation, with a just-opened dining room done up in earth-toned wood, bricks, and paintings of wind-up old-timey businessmen; plus a downstairs lounge replete with leather couches & beanbags, its own bar, and a pool table, all smacking of jealously guarded use -- like a secret den to which your granddad invited only the worthy, of which there were suspiciously few. The menu -- from the Shaun's guy -- boasts new-American action from lamb chops w/ Indian yogurt sauce, to Dutch fries w/ bleu cheese, to flat-iron steaks w/ onion marmalade, to bacon-wrapped hot dogs w/ kimchi -- U.S./Korean relations have never been warmer than in your slobbery maw. Cocktails veer classic (including Manhattans, Sidecars, and -- for now -- $4 Madras Martinis); the 12 taps include both standards (Blue Moon, Stella) and boutiqueness like Rogue Chocolate Stout, Old Chub Scottish Ale, and Dogfish Head Indian Brown, which is malty, cola-colored and, like your grandmother, has a finishing kiss of smoke.

To celebrate their new kitchen, TBB's running a "Bailout Brunch" every Sunday in January, with all-you-can-eat grub for a shocking 25cents, plus $3.75 bloodies and mimosas -- satisfying your fourth basic need, spending $19 on brunch.

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Live to eat and vice versa at TheBureauBar.com