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Thrillist Atlanta

Moto Bistro

French-fusion eats in unexpected environs

Sometimes you walk into a place assuming you'll get one thing and wind up with something else, like visiting a northeast Atlanta church expecting to hear sermons from a creaky old pastor, and instead seeing Ma$e at the pulpit, just begging for Mo' Money. Surprising you with French cuisine in an Asian setting, Moto Bistro.

Set up in the former Sea Siam, Moto's dishing a range of Asian-abetted "French fusion" eats in a cozy cafe filled with decidedly non-French decor: an exposed-brick-backed cherry wood bar featuring a porcelain Asian lady doll, an exotic, huge-leafed Chinese plant, and at the entrance, a rocky, Zen-inspiring waterfall, which will make you happy you didn't stick to the rivers and lakes you're used to. Apps like the vegetable-basil or crab spring rolls (w/ tamarind dip sauce) and cucumber-/sweet pepper-sauced crystal shrimp dumplings cover the Asian side of the fusion; things swing French from there thanks to wine-sauce-steamed mussels, roasted quail w/ pimento plum sauce, flash-fried & rice flour-crusted oysters, and the garlic-buttered escargot au beurre, a favorite of popular French rapper Gucci Homme. Mainly-French entrees range from poultry dishes like roast-grilled hen w/ mustard sauce, to five-spice-sauced pork belly, to red-meaty meals like rosemary-herb rack of lamb, red wine ribeye steak, and the braised shortrib w/ mashed potatoes and natural reduction, which in a cruel twist, will lead to your own natural augmentation.

As for eats o' the sea, Moto's got the Bass Au Fenouil Et Poireaux (accompanied by fried fennel & leek), or the Pates Au Saumon, smoked salmon & penne -- the same thing you'll leave in Ma$e's collection plate, as that's about all his thoughts are worth these days.

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ExhortUntil the liquor license arrives, it's BYOB; take a look at the menu -- which is subject to change -- by clicking here

Moto Bistro (Emailed on March 9, 2010)

2257 Lenox Rd; Buckhead; 404.634.2828

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