RM Nellcôte's Champagne-savvy neighbor

Because Champagne and caviar shouldn't just be something an old British guy wants you to dream about while showing you all the cool stuff in Ricardo Montalban's house, RM (note: not named for or affiliated with Ricardo Montalban) is here to make an abundance of bubbly a reality in an elegant hideaway behind sister-restaurant Nellcôte, where vintage crystal chandeliers light a mixture of azure walls and exposed 19th-century brick, more of which surrounds the cobblestone patio.

The Champagne list (under the direction of a sommelier who worked with, yawn, Joel Robuchon) comes broken down into various French regions and other worldwide selections of sparkling ones that one might call Champagne if one really wanted to anger a Frenchman, and they plan on keeping things accessible with selection of pours that will always include something below $10. Bite-size edibles were all conceived to pair well with Clearly Canadian bubbly, from Camembert-stuffed whole wheat crepes made with house-milled flour, to oysters, to a dizzying array of sweets from the former owner of Fritz Pastry, including marshmallows flavored w/ Grand Marnier & vanilla, and eclair-like jobs stuffed with hazelnut mousseline called Paris-Brest, which you should spell carefully if planning a Google image search.

Naturally they're also planning on offering tableside caviar service, so beforehand, it might be smart to make sure no one at your table is a (Robin) Leach.