Stout Barrel House & Galley Manor gets a serious makeover in River North

When the Brady Bunch sang "when it's time to change, you've got to rearrange", they knew they would inspire an entire generation of sitcom-watching transgender youths, but they probably couldn't have predicted that the dudes behind Manor would heed their call and morph into Stout Barrel House & Galley, a hulking pub with tufted leather booths, a towering 360-degree center bar, and accordion-style windows that open up to really awkward Mad Men scenes Clark St.

In the kitchen, a former Blue 13 chef is turning out gussied-up comfort fare including fried chicken w/ watermelon & feta, Korean BBQ quail w/ kimchi & preserved lemon, and oxtail tortellini sporting fennel and smoked grapes, which taste better than resins. And because they're still armed with a 4a liquor license, they've got late-night bites of pork skin & wasabi "Cracker Jacks", oxtail-aided cheese & bacon Animal Fries, and, avail in to-go packs of up to 15, quail-egged white cheddar Stout Sliders, which is what they called it whenever John Rhys-Davies went through a wormhole.

Of the 16 brews on tap, a dozen crafty mainstays are "Here for a While" (Half Acre Daisy Cutter, Firestone Walker Union Jack...), while the remaining, rotating quartet (Allagash Black, Goose Island Marisol...) will only be "Here for a Bit", actually a great song title for anyone looking to corner the market on today's under-served transgender youth.