In Wrigleyville, being in the wheelhouse doesn't guarantee a home run, but then again, Alfonso Soriano has nothing to do with Wheel House: a bi-level bastion of beer, booze & burgers setting up shop in the former Messner's space, now appointed with an L-shaped dark wood bar, brick walls decked with vintage film reels, and black & white photos depicting old scenes from the neighborhood (which could already include Soriano strikeouts, considering they've seemingly been happening forever).
The meaty menu's from a Kuma's/Bluebird vet, with burgers including the Mark Grace (topped w/ a split Vienna dog and Chi-style fixins), the Ron Santo (goat cheese, olives, cucumber salsa), and the full-pound, bacon/chili/cheese Theo Epstein, which, if finished in under 45min, nets you a shirt and your face on the Wall of Fame, just another thing the Red Sox were unable to work into their compensation package. The lineup also includes gamey patties (ostrich w/ red onion jam 'n pepper jack), battered veggies from tempura green beans to fried pickles, and mac 'n cheese w/ braised pork & fried egg, though you can build-your-own from options including andouille, jalapeno, and corned beef, shockingly the closest the Cubs ever got to acquiring a reuben Sierra.
On the booze front, a quartet of whiskey flights includes the Scotched-up Tour de Haggis (Glenkinchie 12, Cragganmore 12, Lagavulin 16), and 60-plus craft brews count Founders Red's Rye, and Clown Shoes Tramp Stamp, something that should totally be in your wheelhouse whenever you're out in Wrigleyville.
Published: March 1, 2012 at 4:00am EST
3553 N Southport
Chicago, IL 60657
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