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Cutty's

Gourmet sammies come to Brookline Village

It's only natural after watching something long enough to want to give it a shot yourself, until you realize that you can't just be A Real American Hero by grasping a machine gun in your rigid hand and clinging safely to your Mobile Command Center via holes in the bottoms of your heels. Hoping his shot doesn't come up Snake Eyes, the dude behind Cutty's, opening Wednesday.

After spending years as a food industry observer at Cook's Illustrated, this debut culinary endeavor from a CIA grad/former editor is an organic/ locally sourced, fast casual artisan soup, sammie, and breakfast nook situated in a simply stated, 18-seat counter-service spot (formerly Franky 'N the Boys) replete w/ wood tables and a giant green magnetic chalkboard wall that is virtually impossible for lefties to hit a home run over. Hearty sandwiches include a red pepper tapenade-slathered chicken breast w/ aged provolone; roast beef smothered w/ caramelized onions and Thousand Islands dressing; a meaty mortadella plus sopressata number topped w/ olive salad; and a porchetta, garlic confit, and pickled fennel specialty that's only available on Saturdays, which is a bummer for Jews, but they probably aren't ordering it anyway. If you prefer to eat with a fork/spoon, there're salads/soups like simple field greens sprinkled w/ wheat berries, beets and walnuts; an olive and tomato confit-mixed Israeli couscous; creamy roasted cauliflower with curry; and a Rancho Gordo heirloom black bean soup that fetched an impressive $7,800 on Antique Road Show for some white-haired woman who was using it to store her novelty pencils.

To start your day right, Cutty's also offers a solid repertoire of easy breakfast eats like New York-style crumb cake, a burly egg-potato sandwich w/ house-made pork sausage, honey-dripped Greek yogurt, and an assortment of morning buns, which you'll still eat despite knowing their fat content, since knowing's only half the battle.

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Cutty's (Emailed on February 5, 2010)

284 Washington St, at Holden; Brookline Village

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