New York

From the not-Chang behind Momofuku, Star's a skinny sleeve with colonial-style wood paneling, a room-dominating slate-topped communal center table, dual ceiling fans, and a wood-burning brick oven visible through a large service window. Wine and beer's coming soon (PBR on tap; Anchorsteam, Lone Star, and Brooklyn Lager bottles), but the southern eats are ready to go, including BBQ catfish w/ fried cucumbers, collard greens w/ Ham Hock, country fried steak, smothered pork chops, and Dr. Pepper ribs, a big step up from Chili's Baby-Back Pibbs.