Filling out both their open-kitchen'd, counter-service front room and exposed brick/barn door-rocking rear with casually mismatched tables & chairs, the 'burg's famed chicken joint is back in action after a two year hiatus, abetting expertly-fried birds with Dixie fare including Carolina-style pulled pork, crispy catfish, a bacon/egg/cheese "insane burger", plus sides like BBQ-sauced mac & cheese. There're also eight pies to polish it off, from cheddar apple, to rhubarb, to Tarheel, which hopefully isn't filled with unrelenting mediocrity.

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