Chicago

Food Dining

11.3.09

Melanthios Greek Charhouse

3116 N Broadway, btw Barry and Briar; Lakeview; 773.360.8572

Greektown is great and all, but how many times can you really watch a dude light cheese on fire? 50, it turns out. Or maybe 51. But before that 52nd time rolls around, ditch the cheese for authenticity and head to Melanthios Greek Charhouse.

Opening Monday, MGC is taking a more authentic Southern route to fulfilling your cravings for Greek grub in a gleaming white space decked out with vintage lanterns and old beams that contribute to a distinct nautical vibe, also the name of Quincy Jones' ill-fated urban culture sailing mag. The cooking centers around a massive open-pit grill they're filling with natural charcoal to turn out classics like souvlaki and shish kabobs along with bone-in rib eyes and even seafood like octopus and jumbo shrimp, which, like an '80s acne treatment lacking intellect, is an oxymoron. Meats come backed up with veggies (zucchini, bell peppers, portobellos, eggplant) that you can request cooked over the fire or pan fried in olive oil, also their method for doing Greek-style fried potatoes, which are like normal fried potatoes, but Greek to you. And everyone else.

Stay tuned for the debut of their liquor program in a week or two that will heavily feature Greek selections along with some Cali action, and stay equally tuned on weekends, when they'll be spit roasting an entire pig and lamb, but how many times can you really watch a whole animal cook slowly to perfection over an open flame? Anywhere from 53 to infinity, pending the involvement of hilarious flaming dairy.

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