Outsiders have a misconception that Chicagoans are constantly stuffing their faces with deep dish, but then how do you explain all of the NY-style 'za you're shoving into your mouth right now? Backing that point up, Pizzeria Serio.

From a self-taught slice fan with an affinity for the Neopolitan-influenced NYC school of thin crustage, PS is cranking out pies in a 150-seat, bi-level pizza temple spartanly filled with exposed brick, high-backed black booths, and an open brick oven all in a former recording studio that once hosted Bob Dylan, who famously sang "you dough your way and I'll dough mine". Eschewing overwrought modern madness in favor of ol' favorites, hand-stretched goodness includes classic Margherita, the bell pepper-kicked Sausage & Peppas, the Diavola (hot salami, red onion, red pepper flakes), and the Meat Your Heart Out with sausage, pepperoni, and Canadian bacon, savory Candy so delicious you'll scream for Moore. There's also pre-pie snackage including Caesar and Caprese salads, olive oil-brushed oven-fired garlic flatbreads, and mozz- & ricotta-stuffed mini-calzones, which unlike mini donkeys are decidedly not assy.

The opening's BYOB, but in about six weeks they plan to roll out an Italy-/Cali-heavy wine list plus brews (six draft, 15 bottle) from crafters like Bell's, Half Acre, and Fat Tire, which they claim is a Colorado thing, but if that were true then how come you're having so much trouble getting out of your desk chair right now?

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Pizzeria Serio

Published: April 20, 2010 at 4:00am EDT

1708 W Belmont

Chicago, IL 60657

773.525.0600

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