Chicago

Hotel restos can be cocky, second-rate establishments, smug in the complacency that comes from knowing you'll probably say, "Screw that walking all the way around the corner Ruby Tuesday's, let's just eat here". Kicking that complacency in the rubies, State & Lake.

Nestled in boutique hotel theWit, S&L's a legit 110-seat gastropub doling out delectably dressed-up comfort food among vast black-and-white photos, chocolate faux leather-covered walls, and an amber glass bedecked bar lined w/ dimly lit antique seltzer bottles -- a tragic byproduct of rising circus clown unemployment. Portions start small with apps like the Buffalo fries (smothered in Frank's and Maytag blue cheese), chicken liver mousse with red onion marmalade and pickled carrots, and grilled bread served abreast roasted bone marrow, which should appeal to hungry transplants. Heartier appetites can hit the duck egg omelette (lump crab stuffing, chive emulsion), seared scallops (succotash, warm pancetta vinaigrette) or the combo of smoked baby back rib, watermelon-glazed pork tenderloin, and braised pork belly called "Three Little Pigs", hopefully none of which went wee wee wee all the way into the cooking process.

If you're hours early for lunch, you can feast on fast breaking options like Guinness pancakes with caramelized bananas, and the "State and Lake Bennies": biscuits loaded up with pork shoulder and smoked garlic hollandaise, a calorie-soaked option smug enough to make your heart complacently mutter, "Screw it, let's just stop here".