Dallas

Food Dining

11.6.09

Taqueria Abundancia

Sun-Thur 6am-8pm, Fri-Sat 6am-9pm: Inside Valero, 2405 E. State Highway 121; Lewisville; 682.521.2357

Immigrants arrive with different expectations of the American Dream: some are damn happy for any foothold, while others simply assume they'll be instantly hailed as the next Yakov Smirnoff. Damn happy to have any place to serve you authentic Mexican, the guy behind Taqueria Abundancia.

Recently inserted in a Valero at the confluence of State Highway 121's business and toll stretches, Abundancia's a lemon yellow-swathed eatery solely run by man who emigrated from Mexico at 15, then went on to become a corporate sous chef, and now's truly starting on his Dream (owning his own business) while simultaneously fulfilling that of his new fellow citizens (getting completely kick-ass food at a gas station). The ultra-affordable menu's centered around soft tacos/quesadillas/burritos/tortas, stuffed with three locally sourced meats (fajita-style beef, chicken, or barbacoa), plus your-choice scoops of fresh cilantro/onions/tomatoes/sour cream/etc, all topped with a whole jalapeno; tacos're served on doubled-up 6-inch corn tortillas, which, try as they might, don't add up to 12". Sides include fluffy chili-powder-spiked Spanish rice, seasoned roasted taters, and creamy refrieds, while a $5 weekly-specials menu features chicken enchiladas on Mondays and meat-topped house-fried chips on Thursdays; there's also a monthly rotating fourth taco meat, with November's being beef tongue, for those who speak the international lengua of love.

In the am, breakfast tortillas can be had with eggs/bacon/cheese/potatoes plus either regular sausage or chorizo. Bowing to customers of his word-of-mouth catering operation, Abundancia's owner also serves up Asian & Italian items, like pizza (including one with jalapenos & salsa), as well as curve balls like chicken stir-fry -- which'd make Yakov say, "Tacos, 'za, and wok goods? Whatta gas station!"

Look for a stand-alone location in The Colony next year. Meanwhile, stoke the fires of hunger with the menu.
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