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Cheffed by a Flay protégé, this austerely swank, date-friendly bistro's serving up well-spiced, meat-heavy "New American" (Serrano-wrapped rabbit loin, smoked paprika pork tenderloin), plus frothily obscure micros like Old Peculiar, La Brasseur De Gayant, and Arcadia Scotch Ale. Oddly, the place doubles as a showcase for contempo French furniture co. Ligne Roset, though you must hit their Long Island/NJ franchises to actually purchase (begging the question: if IKEA had a Manhattan meatball restaurant, would anybody drive to Red Hook?).

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