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Thrillist San Francisco

Citizen's Band

Fine dinering for SOMA

Some people will do whatever it takes to take their game to the next level, like when you left your Mega Drive on for a year and a half, because you can't save, and Kid Chameleon has hella levels. Taking the diner to the next level, Citizen's Band.

From an ex-Boulevard chef and the talent behind Uva Enoteca and Pinkie's Bakery, CB's a petite "fine diner" whose classic American grub's executed with top notch skill and ingredients, and served in an airy, loft-like space that rocks a metal counter lined with swiveling stools, and a row of polished cement two-tops along a wall plastered with vintage post cards and magazine ads sourced from the Mission but worthy of your dad's decimated Gent collection. Start things off with some cornmeal-encrusted fried green tomatoes (with pickled tomato relish n' spring onion potato chips), a Dungeness crab cake with buttermilk tartar sauce, or CB's version of frank and beans -- grilled sweet Italian sausage with Parmesan/oregano, flanked by Italian butter beans, which thankfully taste nothing like the American one. Then grab your entree, which can be anything from a braised short rib pot roast with beans/carrots/shrooms/horseradish, to a Kobe burger on a challah bun with roasted garlic mayo and chili-infused "burger booster" sauce that the chef describes as "ketchup on crack", as evidently his ketchup wandered over to 6th St.

On the booze front, there's 23 bottles of affordable, domestic vino (with 14 by the glass), and 7 beers by the bottle, including Texas Lone Star and 22s of Anchor -- an effective way to ice an over active Mega Drive.

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Citizen's Band (Emailed on July 13, 2010)

Opening today at 1198 Folsom St, at 8th; SOMA; 415.556.4901

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