When taking over a historic space it's important to respect its original vision, unless it's the Sagrada Familia, in which case you can throw a bunch of blockheads under a giant carapace and tell Gaudi to go eff himself. You the man, Subirachs! For a resto paying homage to its original use, there's the The Lambs Club, unveiling dinner right here.

Set in a room that once housed America's first professional theatrical club (The Lambs, est. 1874) and was graced by everyone from John Philip Sousa to Milton Berle, and finally launching dinner service tonight, TLC's paid homage to the former inhabitants by creating an "empire deco" clubhouse where red leather banquettes, torch-like silver lamps, and a functional 1920s limestone fireplace are loomed over by hanging portraits of original Lambs, only one of whom was hung like a horse. (It was Berle). Night feasts kick off with bowls of white gazpacho abundant w/ peekytoe and green grapes, heritage pork ravioli w/ broccoli rabe & Pecorino, and beef tartare topped with pickled chanterelles, who decided to get boozy as a break from always shrooming. Meaty mains naturally include their namesake (a saddle of it, roasted & sided w/ polenta & pignoli), plus a plancha-grilled Delmonico w/ braised shallots, while the last vestiges of the ocean're pillaged to conjure up citrus-y wild striped bass w/ fennel, olives, and tomato, and a Chatham cod w/ pasta and manila clams, a payday you no longer have to go 14 rounds just to get.

The Petraske-curated cocktail program follows suit, with classics like Southsides and Old Fashioneds alongside lighter quaffs like the Cava/St Germaine "St. Hilaire", though sadly there's no respect shown for another classic group: the Sangria Familia.

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Feast your eyes on the rest of the menu here