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Thrillist New York

Lina Frey

Honoring ones grandparents can take many forms, from calling them on their birthdays, to visiting them at the home, to sending them extremely large print cards so you don't have to do either. Honoring a grandmother with grub, the team behind Lina Frey.

From a pair of music/nightlife industry vets who whet their whistles at Boucarou, LF's named for one of the owner's Alsatian grandmother, serving up cuisine inspired by summers spent at her B&B; the nouveau-barn-steezed sleeve is lined with metallic chairs & weathered wooden benches, brass lamps, and a sliding glass ceiling that imbues an outdoor vibe (though if you want a Parliament, you'll have to tear the roof off the sucker). The sub-$10 menu eschews traditional app/entrée delineation in favor of two categories of proteins, starting with the mostly red meat "de la terre" and it's lemon and truffle oil steak tartar, grilled marinated hanger steak (w/ beurre de lina), bone-in truffled rack of lamb, and two burger options - the "Classic Tasty", and "Bamba's Homemade" (they're not calling it tasty, but you know it's the Bamba). The other side's "de la mer", filled with marinated whole Tilapia that's grilled and served bone-in or filleted; Mussels aux Poivres w/ mixed vegetable & fennel seed Parm crostinis; and seared-then-broiled sea scallops (w/ Avallon garlic & peppers) that's sided with "salty French toast", who's just upset he's been waiting since breakfast.

They'll also be whipping up fresh crepes both savory (ham & emmenthal, lardon & egg) and sweet (sugar/butter, seasonal fruit coulis) from a booth that opens to the street, a quick grab-and-dash option you wish you had at Oak Hollow Assisted Living.

ExhortAdd this to My Thrillist

ExhortStarting out only for lunch 9am-6pm, full service starts next week with 'til-3am weekdays and 'til-6am weekends

Lina Frey (Emailed on June 1, 2010)

Opens Thurs: 201 E Houston, btw Orchard and Ludlow; Lower East Side; 212.995.5546

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