Down the block from its park namesake, Fitler Dining Room's the Pub & Kitchen folks' makeover of the former Mémé, remodeled as a bunch of hilariously captioned cat photos 1920s French bistro serving hefty comforts like truffle-stuffed skate wing and gnocchi with snails, all fired up on a custom range-and-grill by a Stateside vet who's been with P&K since it opened.

Reserved exclusively for walk-ins, the salvaged-from-Independence-Mall marble countertop also salvages your last-minute dinner plans.

The kitchen's lined with old subway tiles. Also, butter. So much butter.

Jerusalem artichoke soup's studded with lobster and rimmed with carrot puree.

Menu meatiness includes Berkshire pork belly, bone-in short ribs, and a tartare of Lancaster beef filet with walnuts, sunchoke chips, and chanterelle mushrooms that point back at you.

The banquette's upholstered in rawhide, which helps the staff when it's time to head 'em up and move 'em out.

Sadly not rawhide, the staff's uniforms; designed by Fishtown jeans-maker Norman Porter.

You can quiz your server on the 40 wines and 20 beers by the bottle, or if you want to narrow your focus before your vision becomes unfocused, they'll have a duo of rotating drafts like Lost Abbey Double and Allagash White.

Dessert's also available by the glass, like a grape-and-port-sauced peanut butter mousse, after which a walk in the park might be a good idea.