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During Carnival, Brazilians pull off a miraculous feat: donning the world's most elaborate costumes while simultaneously remaining naked. They also sometimes do this on Casual Fridays. Elaborately dressing up burgers without losing sight of the meat, X Burger House.

From a Brazilian twosome, this modern, wood-furnished cafe is London's first embassy of Brazilian ground-beefwiches: gigantic, outrageously topped, and named for the way Portuguese speakers mispronounce "cheese" as if it had an "x" -- if we could embrace our own mistakes so good-naturedly, we wouldn't have so many exes. All topped with chee...x, the burgers come in either 5 or 7 inches, with piled-high variations including the ham, peas, & sweetcorn "X", the fried egg-topped "Chicken Heart", the 'Zilian sausage'd "Calabresa", and the 7-inch only, chicken/ bacon/ sausage/ fried egg "Challenge Burger" -- which Anneka would hide most of in her napkin, forcing someone to re-eat it later. More anglophilically, there's the red onion/pickle "Classic", the "Stilton X", and the ground-steak-patty "Rump X", odd, since most things involving the rump have two more x's.

Beyond burgers, there are Brazilian 'dogs so gigantic test customers have actually requested they be made smaller (cowards), sides like hand-cut fries, polenta chips, and deep-fried yams, plus a bar serving up Latin classics like Mojitos, Caipirinhas, and the cachaca/ pineapple/ strawberry/ lime "Brazilian Punch" -- what happens in Brazil to those who prudishly suggest they wear trousers.

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