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Thrillist Los Angeles

Xoia

A new artist-driven... Vietnamese restaurant?

Even though you start down one path, you never know where you'll end up, unless you've got one of those Garmin GPS things, or someone old enough to know how to understand and re-fold maps. For a resto from a guy who definitely can't, check out Xoia, soft open today.

Xoia's a cozy Vietnamesery from a guy who trained as a visual artist, only to realize he was much better as a chef when he cooked for his fellow artists on a retreat, and they dug the food much more than his work; perversely, he's decorated the restaurant with his abstract art, because who needs gallery space, when you've got galley space? Food's dolled up versions of classic Viet-cuisine, with several banh mi options (lemongrass pork; caramelized Cao Lau pork; chicken curry), pho (rare beef; cooked beef; chicken), and noodles, including those stacked with egg rolls, pork and shrimp, and "Bootleg Cao Lau", which's good, but lacks the meaty solos of the Halloween set from '98. In addition, they've got a ton of crazy starters and specials, including tacos made w/ pho-style beef, and sweet and savory sugarcane shrimp, plus green papaya salad, which's just jealous of all the dishes whose names don't end with "salad".

At the moment, Xoia's got no booze, and the whole spot's cash-only, so though you may not know where the path you're on may lead you, it better pass an ATM.

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Xoia (Emailed on June 25, 2010)

1801 W Sunset; Echo Park; 213.413.3232

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