There's something to be said for dudes who stay mama's boys for life, a point that was poignantly explored in the 2007 feature film Mama's Boy, starring the Napolean Dynamite guy, as is suggested by the box, because Lord knows, no one's seen it. Proving the point again, in tasty Korean style: Stone.
Soft open now just off Justin Herman Plaza, Stone's Korean chef Terry Yin's tribute to his mom's home cookin', where each dish's based on something he used to scarf as a lad, but also served up with a twist of his own; the nice-enough space's outfitted with tile floors, granite two and four-tops, and floor to ceiling windows that afford a nice view of the little Embarcadero ice rink, making it the spot to
creepily watch kids while you eat take in the holiday cheer. Affordable small plates range from the seafood pa jun (savory pancake with squid, shrimp, and scallions), to crispy/sweet/spicy rice cakes with sesame seeds, to the signature Stone wings fried in a tangy "special sauce" -- which needed extra attention, so it was reared in a small, private facility, by an extra patient saucemaker. Full fare errs both on the side of tradition (e.g., the dol sot bim bi bap rice n' veggie bowl with your choice of meat n' fried egg), and experimentation, born out by the spicy silken tofu stew (with shrimp, clams, and pork belly), and the sliced ribeye bulgogi/lettuce/tomato "BLT" -- trying to replace bacon? Pure balls, bulgogi. Pure balls.
Washing it all down's a nice little collection of 14 mainly CA-sourced vinos, and a short n' sweet beer list that includes three Korean lagers: Hite, Cass, and delicious Oriental Brew, also the name of Napoleon Dynamite's failed sequel to Strange Brew.
Published: November 24, 2009 at 4:00am EST
4 Embarcadero Center
San Francisco, CA 94111
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