From Michael Mina, an ex-Rubicon somm, and a former French Laundry sous chef, RN's a hungry wino's mecca, comprised of 113 seats (spread between the dining room and bar) under wood arches/metal framework evocative of an old Euro train station. There's around 3000 French and "new world Pinot" bottles (including 75 for under $100 on the rotating-daily train-sched-style "Market Board"), while affordable French-Cali grub ranges from mini action like sweet bread ragout w/ blue prawns, to full-fledged fare like sauteed scallops in honey broth, kumquats, and lovage -- a close relative of celery, only much more affectionate.

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Menus, wines by the glass, and reservations at MichaelMina.net/RN74