Taking over a less-than-notable buffet spot, Szechuan House brought in a serious chef from the capital of China's boldest culinary region to create 200 dishes including authenticities like fatty, bacon-esque twice-cooked pork, and sliced beef in a soupy, generously chile-peppered sauce, as well as $6.95 lunch specials that nonetheless transcend the former inhabitant's General Tso-so chicken.