Maison Getting your French on near Millennium Park

Finally there's a French house not occupied by that whiny dude from 3rd Rock, and it's Maison: a new Lakeshore East brasserie from the Custom House folks aiming for a modern-yet-homey Gallic vibe with mosaic walls, aged French oak tables, and burgundy banquettes that think all tables smell of rich mahogany.

Set sail with steamed mussels w/ saffron mayo, or Jonah crab claws w/ lemon aioli, then storm the shores to grab chicken liver terrine w/ red onion confiture, and gruyere-packed pastry bites known as gougeres, suggesting Domino's marketing campaign hasn't convinced the French they've perfected cheesy bread.

From there, it's duck confit w/ turnip gratin & lavender honey, shallot-butter-smeared steak frites, and Dijon-sauced handmade pasta w/ pearl onions, 'shrooms, and braised rabbit that surprisingly wasn't paired with some Cheddar Bob.

The 50-plus vinos are primarily French, and there'll be a constantly rotating sextet of wines on tap, far less obnoxious than any house whines you'll encounter at Mr. Stewart's.