Ser Steak tastes better when you're (27 stories) high

To make room for Ser, the former Nana space way up in the Anatole underwent more changes than Bowie said he went through, even though he was only 23: tablecloths have gone the way of the dodo, while in are a 14-seat chef's table, sleek high-back leather chairs, iPad wine menus, a glass-encased wine room, and a wood-lined bar backed by stone, because what else is Ron Wood doing these days. Besides the epic skyline view, why you need to be there:

Starters: Grab ahi tartare or jalapeno-heated hamachi crudo from the raw bar, plus cheese & charcuterie plates (speck from Iowa, goat feta from Waco, Dublin karst from... Dublin... TX), and big apps like a tempura-fried half Maine lobster.

Steaks & Not Steaks: House-aged Wagyu includes the ultra-rare spinalis cut (a tasty ribeye cap). Beef-haters can dig on line-caught salmon, day boat sea scallops with celery root puree & black truffle vinaigrette, or a wood-roasted, Peruvian-pepper-sauced Double B chicken breast, plenty big, because DDs would just hurt your back.

Cocktails: Michael Martensen (in case you missed it, here's what he's doing at Cedars Social these days) crafted the libations, from classic Gimlets, to the Bull Le Jeune (maple, bacon fat-washed Jim Beam, Angosturas), to a number featuring Woodford Reserve, five-spice syrup, and pressed mint leaves over crushed ice, called the Spirit of Ecstasy -- a reference you'll recognize if, like the under-appreciated Ron Wood, you know your Rolls.