Italians are a paradoxical bunch, maintaining obsessive standards for pizza, but not caring at all when their PM heats up an underage pie. Meeting those stringent culinary requirements: Dough Pizzeria Napoletana, soft-opening for friends and family a week from today.

From married, not-at-all Berlusconi-like San Antonio pizza-passionistas (the husband graduated top-of-his-class from CIA), Dough's DFW debut follows Specialita Traditionale Garantita's Napoletana guidelines with their dome-like, wood-burning, volcanic-stone-floored oven that cooks at 800deg for 90 seconds. Save for the STG-mandated Italian plum tomatoes, the hand-tossed 'zas feature local ingredients including oak-roasted classics ('shrooms, zucchini, peppers, sausage...), plus egg, pancetta, speck, white anchovies, prosciutto, caramelized onion, and slivered garlic -- which carries a delicious aftertaste of Suspicion It's Being Spied On By Billy Baldwin. Beyond the flat 'n round, there's also a mozzarella & burrata bar featuring the likes of skewered spiedini and smoked salmon rollatini, plus salads with greens from Bluebonnet Farms, helping to compensate for all those 'creams from Blue Bell Farms.

The 20ft bar's pouring house-made cream sodas (cherry, peach, blackberry...), craft cocktails, drafts from Live Oak, bottles of Peroni & Moretti, and a solid wine list that's exclusively Italian, and not just because it mixes the aged with the not-aged.