A "more refined version of the old one", the roomy, 4000sqft LoDo iteration of The Squeaky Bean is so big and awesome it should give the original Highland space a wedgie. Plating the same "cutting-edge, creative" seasonal cuisine (and sourcing ingredients grown on their own farm), the generally farmhouse-y spot is set off with a few non-minimliast design touches, like a host stand fashioned from an ancient automatic drink mixer, tables cut from old train car flooring, and a spoon-filled chandelier called the "The Spoondelier", which sounds like a movie where Antonio Banderas swashbuckles his way into cuddling sessions.
Dig into a seaworthy king crab tortellini filled with corn & roasted shishito, or opt for land-based dinner plates like "lamb-wrapped lamb" served with an exotic Chinese veggie & green garlic soubise, and duck terrine with cherry, mustard, and bread soldiers, who're just mercenaries fighting for dough. The 12 'tails were hatched by the guy behind Williams & Graham and named for his favorite '70s and '80s movies/ TV shows, from the gin/ Blume Marillen "Real Ginius", to the 5 Island Rum/ Canton/ lemon bitters "Up in Smoke", which's poured from a frozen beaker so cold it produces a smoke trail, though especially now, you should never yell "fire!" in a crowded Denver.
Four taps round out the drink list, highlighted by Avery White Rascal and Great Divide's Samurai, and then there's a strong selection of bottles stuffed in a restored Bevador fridge from the '50s, so apparently they're cool enough to avoid being stuffed in a locker.
Published: June 26, 2012 at 4:00am EDT
1500 Wynkoop St
Denver, CO 80202
Be the first to know about the newest restaurants, bars, & events in your hood.