The Seagrass Wild game gets tamed

When things go better than expected (like this "drought" for instance), it's a good idea to make them permanent, hence the Seagrass: a former one-day-a-week popup run by a pair of sustenance suppliers -- one running wild game, one seafood -- now upgraded into a three-day-a-week resto in Islington's Victorian Pie & Mash shop, complete with wooden booth seating and bolted-down marble tables that'd be too thick to half-inch anyway.

The menu rotates weekly, with recent offerings spanning starters like spiced Cornish crab bisque w/ basil creme fraiche, garlic-buttered West Coast mussels, and pan-fried pigeon breast w/ chestnut mushroom risotto & white truffle oil, whose prices have spiked wildly ever since Blair's questionable decision to invade Northern Italy.

Larger fare involves the likes of pan-fried sea bream fillet w/ citrus mash & shrimp butter, venison haunch w/ triple-cooked chips & bearnaise, and 1/2 a Scottish lobster kilted in thermidor sauce, though being a lobster, you stand about as good a chance of seeing its genitalia as you would a Scotsman's.

It all comes out to just £30 for three courses (cash only), reasonableness further helped by BYOB status, although there are plans afoot for an on-license, making the place about as "dry" as your liver can handle.