They say to strike while the iron is hot, which means London Underground workers must have the most wrinkle-free shirts amongst all public servants. Quickly capitalizing on success: the man behind Thirty Six, now serving in the eminently plush Duke's Hotel.
Fresh from a first Michelin earned up in Cumbria, Thirty Six's head man wasted no time opening this gorgeous gourmet cubbyhole where walls packed with artworks spanning hundreds of years surround exactly 36 chairs, perhaps in keeping with the Torah's veneration of that number, but probably just because nobody wants to look at the dateless loser sitting in chair #37. Inventive twists on classic British cuisine (yes, it exists) start small, with quail hopping in as both terrine & braised leg covered in "quail jus", plus scallops w/ smoked eel & red sorrel, and braised cheek of "rare breed pork", which, once you order it, will more correctly be called "now even rarer breed pork". More fully covering your plate are Goosnargh duck w/ savory granola, foie, and black cherry; salt marsh lamb sticky ribs with braised shank; and a hulking rib of beef w/ native oysters & brill, something this dish would've been even without the fish.
Sticking around for dessert yields the likes of carrot cake with liquid carrot, and raspberry semifreddo with vanilla doughnuts -- which play right into those striking Undergrounders' hands, because they make it impossible for you to just walk.
Published: September 15, 2011 at 2:00am EDT
35 St Jamess Place Mayfair
London, SW1A 1NY
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