Low Country The menu heads South, the expectations head north

Maintaining its position as more-than-just-diet-Chelsea, Fulham's latest diet-destroyer -- soft-open now, officially from Thurs -- serves "big & easy" Southern US-style eats from within a wood-filled, open-kitchen, red-leather-seated space that sorta looks like a diner wrapped in a pub, and comes complete with its own raw bar, smokehouse, and beer garden (the other smokehouse).

Said rawness will come in the form of iced lobs, littleneck clams, spiced shrimp, etc., while small-portion Southern classics count grits w/ smoked cheese & "crisp pig" (disappointingly, not Gary Lineker), plus spare ribs thrown on the grill, then set on fire with a healthy dousing of Wild Turkey.

The mains will see your stomach succumbing to arguably nonaddictive cracked crab (all females to ensure you get the tasty roe too), some good-as-it-sounds chicken-fried pork steak, plus fat Pinot Noir burgers, marinaded in red wine while they're still blue.

Drinks-wise, there's a strong list of Southern-oriented 'tails (margs, Lynchburg lemonades, etc.), plus a pair of exotically refreshing, beer-strength Jeremiah Weed bottles: Sour Mash Brew, made from fruit alcohol & bourbon, and an alcoholic root beer, an efficient way to get big, and easy.