British food doesn't often lend itself to small plates, or in the case of fish and chips, plates, but Soho's Central & Co is intent on changing that. Officially cutting ribbon tomorrow, they're serving Sceptered Isle sharers in the upstairs of a bi-level space smoothly appointed with polished brass and white stone, perhaps a reference to Sly's tendency to polish off everything that came in that color.
All cuisine's sourced within the borders, including crab & samphire, steak tartare & quail's egg, crispy lamb sweetbreads, and rabbit rillette, rabbit roulette being a fun and exciting way to potentially double your rabbits.
If you believe sharing isn't caring and is actually an activity engaged in by the weak and naive, then hog a whole main such as flat iron steak covered in blue cheese hollandaise, half a grilled lobster, or a whole roast baby chicken stuffed with bacon.
Downstairs, things get innovative with the "brandless bar": shelves are filled with label-less spirits, and barkeeps will come to your tableside armed with decanters to mix classic Negronis, Manhattans, etc. They'll also be tapping pints of house lager & pale ale, as well as a Sam Smith's selection, so delicious, your eyes will be as big as plates.
Published: May 22, 2012 at 2:00am EDT
22 Great Marlborough Street Soho
London, W1F 7HU
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