Ittenbari Soups you, sir

Finally, a place that serves ramen that doesn't rhyme with "fwagamamas": Ittenbari, freshly landed in Soho courtesy of the man behind Osaka's vaunted Ryukishin. Sporting a similar spartan-but-cozy vibe, the new joint's menu actually goes well beyond the literally-just-noodle-soup approach of both the original restaurant, and pitiably stocked dorm kitchens across the land.

Fat slices of pork, spring onions, pickled bamboo shoots & a soft-boiled egg accompany the daily made noodles, which are either deep-fried or boiled, then thrown into broths including miso, soy sauce-based shoyu, or the salty house specialty shio, which is given a "rich seafood" flavour by infusing with mussels, though is there really that much of Van Damme left to go around?

Beyond the bowl, you'll find hot katsu curries, pork/veg gyoza, a style of chicken fried rice called "char-han", sushi, slightly grilled aburi salmon, and chopped salmon rolls called "gunkan", literally translated as "battleship", also a movie whose theatres are doomed to be pitiably stocked.