A restaurant obsessed with meatballs need not necessarily be campy, as evidenced by the downtown, warehousey coolness of The Devil's Advocate. The serpentine beerteria outfits its space with a copious brew refrigeration system, expanded bar up front, and sleek flatscreens that you'll jealously eye as your belly becomes ever more round from:
The Eats: Designed for ultimate flexibility (meaning options... again, physically this stuff will make you the opposite of flexible), the menu builds off a base of beef, pork, chicken, salmon, and falafel meatballs which can come a la carte (sans bun for spaghetti-style usage), singly (in a slider), doubled, or tripled. They're topped with your choice of cheese (mozzarella, provolone) and sauce (pomodoro, Sunday gravy, mushroom, pesto, yogurt), and accompanied by the likes of fries, grits, and something called fregula, which's apparently a couscous-like pasta, and not, in fact, a vampire Fraggle.
The Drinks: The rye- & bourbon-heavy bar also stocks vino ranging from Astoria Lounge Prosecco to Cantele Salice Salentino, plus 40+ drafts including the international likes of La Chouffe Houblon DBL Belgian IPA & Southern Tier Eurotrash Pilz, and domestics such as Lagunitas Hairy Eyeball, Bell's Hopslam, and Epic Hop Syndrome, aka a form of temporary insanity brought on by watching more than three minutes of that Easter Bunny movie.
For now, only the front half of the space'll be open, but eventually the back and alley-side patio will open as a separate, food-centered "speakeasy", though now that you know about it, that mysterious label just... doesn't... matter.