Truly traditional Thai can alienate peeps without adventurous palates (not to mention those without dexterous tongues), so the long-Thaime vet behind Karta is trying to keep things as accessible as possible while still retaining some authentici-Thai (... sorry).

The understated Northeast joint's neutral colors betray a flavorful menu you can smell cooking up in the open kitchen: from rolls aplenty (egg and spring), to chicken wings, duck noodle soup, and an only-$7 "Quick Lunch" selection that, like a timid rollerblader, is stocked with every pad you can imagine.

Branching out a bit, there's a Pad Thai Omelette (basically, exactly what it sounds like), and -- what you really came for -- "Unique Entrees" like a walleye filet topped with sweet & sour, spicy curry, or ginger sauce, sweet & spicy "Gang Ped Duck", and "Shrimp Basil", whose name doesn't do justice the squid, crab claws, and mussels swimming within, and amounts to a dish big enough to ensure you'll need an adventurous pallet to lift you out of the place.