Definitely not to be confused with all the other places that have "Soup" in the middle of their name, The Bowery Kitchen's the new project from the gang behind boutique tenement-tel Bowery House, who're plating old-Bowery-priced Italian/modern American eats in neon-sign-lit ("EAT" over the kitchen, "DRINK" over the drink menu... that's good advice!), new-Bowery-looking digs that feature tables inlaid with works by 29 Italian artists, and walls adorned with big photos of Elvis and Brigitte Bardot.
Obeying those neon signs starts with breakfast including a definitively non-deli prosciutto & fontina egg sandwich on a potato roll, French toast with caramelized banana & creme fraiche, and espresso from a machine that's only "one of 50 in the US", so they better start producing more if they want to enslave us anytime before 2050. The rest of the day brings a porchetta sandwich interestingly done up with hummus, slow-cooked pork cheek, and three-cheese & speck pizzas, plus pastas like gnocchi with gorgonzola, pear & walnuts, and whole wheat salmon lasagna w/ pesto & potato, just to make up for the fact that they almost made lasagna that was healthy with that salmon.
The signs also want you to get after vino curated by the "wine maniac" Italian owner (he lives on a vineyard!), or snag tapped brews including one made just for them (by an "independent brewer upstate") dubbed Bowery Brew, which is somewhere between an ale and a lager, so you can "have 15 and not get a hangover", which is basically still the MO of plenty of people on the Bowery, because they're already starting on their next 15.
Published: August 7, 2012 at 4:00am EDT
New York, NY 10012
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