Three stories of Russian opulence

Deciding that Moscow has more to offer gastronomically than Mules capable of turning you into an ass, the city's famed Cafe Pushkin has sent over their head chef to open a Big Apple outpost, whose three stories of opulent, pre-commie nostalgia (angel murals that continue seamlessly onto the banquettes, a hand-carved classical relief on the driftwood ceiling, massive glass chandeliers) include a pastry counter, and a vodka-focused bar, which probably has a really hard time raising itself.The Cossack comestibles are as decadent as the setting, with Osetra caviar or salmon roe Millet Blinis, beef tartare w/ borodino bread croutons, sturgeon Galantine stuffed w/ shrimp & olive tapenade, and a traditional "Olivier" Salad loaded with potato, quail egg, smoked chicken, crawfish, and caviar, suggesting the true Russian Steamroller is lunch.The signature main's a crouton-crusted patty known as Pojarsky (made w/ either burger meat or a blend of veal & chicken), while also blowing your babushka are pork/beef/lamb Pelmeni dumplings, veal-filled blintzes, and crawfish-sauced whole sterlet: a popular Eurasian fish that arrives w/ potato puree & baked cherry tomatoes, which, in spite of being wild enough to smoke, are decidedly not funky.Rounding it out, desserts (by the "top pastry chef in the world") count hazelnut meringue domes w/ caramel-apple coulis, and a "Cafe Pushkin" layer cake with blueberry & raspberry gelee, toasted almonds, and pistachio mousse -- if Moscow can't make you a huge ass with her Mules, she can at least make your ass huge.