Cal's Classic American A serious chef hits the suburbs

Conclusively demonstrating that French Laundry is good for something other than a bountiful source for garments that can double as white flags, a veteran of that Napa dining destination (and Ballard's Bastille) is cheffing at Cal's Classic American, a casual suburban destination for elevated middle Americans like the hilarious Tim Allen whose new sitcom is completely original because, this time, all his boys are now girls! cuisine. Here's what to expect when the Kent spot opens Monday:

The Space: This comfortably unpolished eat/drinkery seats what you got in P.E. in the dining room (110) and what you got in Earth Science at the bar (65), is finished with exposed metal & millwork made with wood salvaged from a local barn, and features three worn-leather booths fitted w/ personal suds taps, and an open kitchen dominated by a wood-fired pizza oven built by a Bellingham co. called Wood Stone.

The Mains: You'll probably need to snag the Ham Shank Hash w/ braised pork shanks, market vegetables & fried egg; Pot Roast of braised brisket w/ buttermilk mashed potatoes; or the locally grown, air-cooled fowl/veggies-stuffed Chicken Pot Pie, all of which are made with ingredients sourced from 73 Washington farms, so you probably shouldn't order 'em if you're trying to catch a movie.

The Other Eats: Include thin crust "Old Forge"-style 'za options (the arugula/pine nuts/sheep's ricotta-topped Shepherd's Pie & All Meat w/ aged American ham & craft sausages); manly salads like the grilled romaine/smoky peppers Steak; and sandwiches like a Meatball Hoagie w/ fennel, whole milk mozz & a tomato sauce that, like France's WWII border in regards to Germany, is served up open.