There’s something nostalgic about meatballs, what with all those memories of childhood suppers spent watching that camp movie alone and eating a TV dinner while Mom went out dancing with Steve. Because kids whose moms weren't floozies told you those Italian beef spheres were also great, check out Meatballs.
From Michel Richard, this fast-service joint serves... exactly what you'd think, with the ballsy theme rounded (!) out via Mason jars sporting gum, tennis, and bouncy balls, pendant jar lighting, and brick painted with "Balls, purveyors of rounded meats", a statement about both what they're making, and what they're turning you into. Them balls be mad creative, and besides traditional beef, can be shaped from crab, Moroccan lamb, chicken, or lentils, and served in a grinder, atop pasta (bucatini), or in an a la carte pair called "Mini's", all of which sounds delicious, but isn't super-ripe for a balls joke, so maybe just go watch that SNL skit with Alec Baldwin. Making the simple more deliciously complex are five sauces (traditional marinara, creamy alfredo, morel mushroom…), and add-ons like peppers, roasted eggplant confit, Fritos, and cheese (fresh mozz, provolone, or Parm reggiano), all found in the "Enhance'em" section, but not the "Enhance Em" section, which just plays clips of CSI technicians clearing up grainy security video of Marshall Mathers.
And since Sunday is probably your diet's cheat day, Michel's loading a pot with saucy balls, toppings, two loaves of bread, and 2lbs of pasta for his "Sunday Night Dinners" -- again, something you normally ate while summer-camped out in the TV room.
Published: November 3, 2011 at 4:00am EDT
656 E st nw
Washington, DC , 20004
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