Los Angeles

Andrew's Cheese Shop

To realize their vision, artists often part ways with the bands that made them famous -- case in point, Phil Collins, who finally gave up begging the other Genesis guys to let him sing about Tarzan. Now a cheese maker takes that same bold step, at Andrew's Cheese Shop.

Andrew established his rep as the fromagier at the Melrose Patina (a position the resto created for him), but is now bravely going solo with an eponymous, mid-sized, hardwood-floor'd shop, which boasts over 200 varieties of smelly, curdy goodness. The international selection includes a pineapple-ish smoked-sheep from English Farmhouse (made in a circa-1400s barn-turned-dairy); an award-winning Swiss-style from Wisconsin's Pleasant Ridge Reserve; and "Renata": a custom cheese wrapped in chestnut and grape leaves, it's named for the single Northern Washington cow that produces it (so eventually this style will be called something else, like "Hamburger"). In addition, once a week (probably Thursdays), fresh mozzarella'll be made in-store by a Foundry sous chef, who in just a few minutes'll whip together cheese perfect for a pizza, or string, or for ridiculing Jersey folk for not including the "ella".

Andrew's also stocking specialty honey, caviar, jams, and almonds, and in the fall'll be selling wines -- which, together with cheese, forms a duet so timeless, it could only be topped by Peter Gabriel joining Phil C. for a snappy performance of "Easy Lover".

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