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Thrillist Los Angeles

Stefan's at L.A. Farm

As your parents once said, it's not whether you win or lose, but how you consistently brag about your prowess, only to lose to a less-talented chef before returning to glory with your own sweet restaurant, all while making lesbians feel slightly uneasy. Doing just that: Stefan's at LA Farm.

The first restaurant from the cocky, sapphically-inclined runner-up in last year's Top Chef, SALAF's a flickering-neon-signed, casual bistro in a totally renovated, previously Stefan-less LA Farm space, now blessed with an abstract-arted interior and an outdoor area w/ leather corner banquettes surrounding flaming fire-pits, in case you're afraid to admit the steak is undercooked. The food's all about unusual twists: oysters are served w/ fennel vinaigrette and absinthe jello, a fried arancini is stuffed w/ shavings from French and Italian truffles, and pork cheek's are abetted with sauerkraut, caraway seed sausage, and pretzel dumplings, a name you knew you should've trademarked post visiting the Dodger Stadium bathroom. Drinkswise, they've got a full bar w/ specialty bevvies named after/created by each of the owners/managers/barmen, including Stefan's own "Finnish Me Off" (Finlandia tangerine w/ triple sec, peach tea, and cranberry); the GM's Grey Goose w/ tequila, blood orange and grapefruit juice ("Rickey's Main Squeeze"), and the chef de cuisine's Fernet Branca w/ creme de menthe, coke, and soda water ("Leo's Argentian Dragon"); they've also got a strictly-American beer and wine list, with 10 carefully-chosen brews including (Stefan fave) Bud Light and Arrogant Bastard... no, we insist, you make the joke!

The restaurant's open next Thursday, but reservations start tomorrow -- make one first thing in the morning, or risk bragging that you already got one, only to lose it to some early rising chick with a buzzcut.

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Stefan's at L.A. Farm (Emailed on July 30, 2009)

3000 W Olympic, Santa Monica; 310.449.4000

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