You may think you're befriending the Earth by dining "regional/seasonal", but to the every-gross-little-part-eating Native American, you're nothing but a scalp-worthy wastrel. Using animals for all they're worth, Mado.

Cheffed by a husband and wife team, Mado's an Italian/Mediterranean, exposed-brick bistro furnished almost entirely with salvage, from blackboards yanked from an old church, to a mahogany desk-turned-communal-table pulled from an old farmhouse -- add a dozen kids with whooping cough, and you got a schoolhouse. But it's the kitchen that gets truly resourceful: in addition to locally produced vegetables, Mado's bringing in whole pigs, lambs, etc, disassembling them with a giant meat-saw, then roasting 'em up on either a rotisserie or a wood grill (the cooking device, not George Washington's "Friday night teeth"). The menu'll change daily based on based on whatever's fresh, and'll range from safe deliciousness like hangar steak w/gorgonzola polenta and freshly made tagliatelle, to daringness like lamb loin wrapped w/ fennel-stuffed belly meat, and testa: boiling the whole hog-head/trotters/tongue in an aromatic stock and rolling the tasty bits into a sausage -- like some voodoo ritual designed to curse you with relentless drooling.

Booze-wise, Mado's starting out strictly BYOB, which you'll make the most of as you ring every last drop of Franzia out of its bladder.

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