Chicago

5.22.08

Look at the countries France has occupied or colonized, and you'll see their culinary influence still lingers like a delicious case of herpes. The exception: Mexico -- until now, with Mexique.

Owned/cheffed by a guy who started his career as a pot washer, Mexique's a minimalist, earth-toned spot that serves up traditional Mexican fare incorporating French ingredients and techniques (tonguing tongue?). The culture mingling starts with apps like seafood mousee tamal cooked in banana leaves, mussels w/ chorizo in white wine & tomato-saffron beurre blanc, and a sope trio: escargot w/ chimichurri butter, shrimp provencal w/ avocado mousse, and sweet plantains w/ coconut & mole -- each paired with French wines or premium tequila flights, if you're ready to fly the alternately friendly and enraged skies. Mains include a lamb duo (herb-crusted rack & coffee-braised shoulder barbacoa), a 10oz sirloin w/ chimichurri & purple malanga white truffle mash, and grilled Atlantic salmon w/ chipotle coulis over sweet saffron corn porridge -- eat only your own or risk being devoured by bears.

Desserts play off gringo faves: margaritas (tequila-guava gelee w/ raspberry sorbet), enchiladas (ancho chile'd walnut crepes stuffed w/ chocolate ganache), and a guacamole made with avocado pastry cream, strawberry compote, & crispy phyllo -- so even though it's French-Mexican fusion, it'll all be Greek to you.

Check out mad butter at MexiqueChicago.com