New York

8.25.08

Apothéke

9 Doyers St, between Pell and Bowery; 212.406.0400

"Location, location, location" means different things to different businesses -- bodegas grab corners to snare foot traffic, while shady accountants occupy 2nd floor offices so passersby'll be reassured their shadiness is legit. Locking down the perfect cranny for a clandestine cocktail bar, Apothéke.

From the Burger Shoppe gal and an award-winning Bouley booze ace, 'Theke's a former opium den, opera house, and restaurant covertly nestled into an elbow-shaped Chinatown block historically dubbed "the bloody angle" for its gang violence; the spot's marked only by a Gold Flower Restaurant sign and a dapper Brit doorman named James (The James Gang?). The bar itself's inspired by Feudal French apothecaries (cork-lidded, tincture-filled jars, herbs marinating in absinthe, a wall-large apothecary glyph), while the overall effect's Medieval/Victorian-plush, with touches like upholstered walls, tile-inlaid wood floors and, in the bathroom, coiled brass pipe flowing into a gramophone-shaped faucet (tragically drowning that spot-eyed dog). Intricately concocted cocktails are organized according to apothecary treatments, e.g., Aphrodisiacs (champagne and cognacs), Pain Killers (tequilas and spices), Stress Relievers (incorporating lavender, sage, etc), and the cucumber/rose-water inflected category Health & Beauty -- for when you've drank enough to think you're both hale and "totally f'able".

'Theke's barkeeps also take requests, and'll offer a "house remedy" for whatever ails you -- though there is no cure when your location, location, location is always a bar.

Apotheke's soft open now, but hosting private parties this week. Check out the cocktail menu.