New York

Italian cuisine as we know it owes an enormous debt to the New World -- birthplace of the tomato and, many argue, the cheesy bread stick. For Italian that's even New Worldier, try Lomito, open today.

A high-ceilinged, chandeliered SoHo bistro, Lomito's run by Sosa Borella's Argentinean owner and cheffed by Italian cooks (like a venn diagram of fist-shaking passion). Grub's a mix of both cultures, including made-from-scratch pastas (pappardelle w/ lamb ossobucco, ravioles rellenos stuffed w/ slow-roasted duck), plus filet mignon and strip steaks topped w/ chimichurri -- the sauce immortalized in the Elton Juan classic "Chimi and the Jets". As for drinks, Lomito pours traditional and berry'd-up mojitos, plus caipirinhas and an extensive list of Argentinean reds like malbecs and tempranillos, the latter aged in American oak barrels (good to see America exporting something, Detroit).

After 11pm Wednesday through Saturday, Lomito'll serve a pared down bar menu featuring short ribs, meat empanadas, grilled filet sandwiches, and potato omelettes done Spanish style -- a method which itself owes an enormous debt to the New World's lack of smallpox, and fear of silly hats.